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I’m sure it’s not hard to run into identity issues in this town, especially in Bushwick, Brooklyn. There have been tons of great places popping up. There’s New/American Italian, Fusion/New Japanese, great Mexican places, and now Ramen.
So, back in the summer, this beautiful Restaurant Bar opened up, called the Morgan. The space was large and gorgeous with wood interior. There was a whole space in the back and the basement for parties, for bands, etc… The beer selection was great and the food was pretty amazing. It got some flak for being overpriced or pretentious from the local Bushwick website, but I never thought that that was true.
The first time I went in there, I had their truffle fries (with parmesan) and was blown away. Ryan’s stopped by here to get his oyster and charcuterie fix. I loved their salad and steamed mussels. We never ordered their tasting menu, burger, or any other entree. We were happy with the bar fixings.
The fifth or sixth time we went in there, we found out that they got rid of almost everything on the menu that we liked. I just got off work and was enjoying a beer and waiting for Ryan to walk over. When he got there, we finished our beers and went to Roberta’s. For real. And after that we never really went back.
The other day, we were walking with Ryan’s sister on our way to brunch at Roberta’s, and she mentions that The Morgan is a Thai place now. ?!?!?!!? So, I insist on peeking in and lo and behold, it’s a freaking Thai place. WTH? WHY? Sadly, and maybe unfairly, I’m just not down with that. The flyers outside shows the burlesque and comedy shows they do in the back, the interior hasn’t changed, and everything is deceptively similar… except they changed their plaque and there is a dingy paper Thai menu stuck to the front.
How can I express my disappointment? That night when I looked at the menu and asked for the things I usually get, I gave one of the managers feed back that I really go there for the truffle fries, charcuterie, and mussels. They were sweet and said that they appreciated the feed back. Deep down, I was hoping that in a week or so it would be back on their menu. Now, I don’t know why all these changes are happening or whether the restaurant wasn’t able to sustain itself, or whether it’s doing better because of this change… I REALLY wanted them to be successful. I really loved their first menu, their craft beers, etc… I thought the neighborhood needed a place like this. I knew other people that thought the same thing. If the reviewers criticizing The Morgan of gentrifying the neighborhood spooked them… well, that’s dumb. I wanted them to hold their ground. I wanted them to eventually offer amazing brunches. I wished they would have just soldiered on with the original premise.
Ryan’s mentioned that the gentrification process here is a little different. With this whole mess I totally agree. Ryan’s observation is that there is a maintained effort to keep the neighborhoods looking the same. You don’t want to take away the mystique of pre-gentrified Bushwick. So you have all these bars with no signs out front, going about their business via word of mouth. (The Narrows, Tandem, etc…) You can’t really doubt that there are stereotypes about any restaurants out there. Most places here (even Burger It Up!) tout suppliers with self-sustainable organic farms, organic grass fed meats, and at times their own home grown vegetables. I feel like all of the establishments out here do a little bit of self-deprecating. Honestly, the prices are not cheap, but the food is good. And in this regard, The Morgan wasn’t different… except I feel like they lacked the self-deprecation that businesses here like. The Morgan was grand and beautiful inside. And maybe that’s why they got some flak. It’s a shame, because it is a great space and had really great food for those short months.
I really wonder why they thought to reinvent the place as a Thai restaurant? And a boring one at that.
 Shinobi Ramen
53 Morgan St. (Grattan) Brooklyn, NY 11206
I’ve been waiting for this place to open for the last couple of months. I first found out about it when they put up their “Shinobi Ramen” sign up while I was getting out of Pinebox, which is across the street. I LOVE ramen, but I’m a little picky. Being from Kyushuu, I prefer Tonkotsu style ramen (and yes, adore Ippudo and Hide-Chan) to Soy, Miso, or Shio. I’m also not a fan of Momofuku Noodles, Rai Rai Ken, or Minka. All of their broths suffer from being too salty, since the flavor of their broth isn’t strong enough. Meh. I do like Setagaya (the old) and Menkuitei.
I will say this, with this new addition to the neighborhood, this area probably now has almost everything you would want. I am ecstatic about this shop and I REALLY wanted to like this place. I was a little skeptical, once I saw their menu with Soy and Miso ramen (although I do enjoy those flavors, as well).

First thing first, I ordered the Mabo Ramen (instead of their Shinobi Ramen staple), which uses their ramen broth and combines it with a spicy Mabo Tofu. It was pretty amazing. The broth is REALLY satisfying, the toppings are good, and consistency of their noodles has everything I need. The broth is a combination of chicken and pork, while their Shinobi Ramen has the addition of Soy Sauce, and the toppings range from Chasiu (pork belly) to ground pork for the Mabo Ramen. The portions are good, the prices range (depending on topping) from $9-12.50. They also have a Miso Ramen, and a Soy-based Vegetarian ramen. The broth and toppings get high marks from me. Their noodles get the job done, although I’m not sure whether they make them in-house. The firmness is perfect, though.
On Friday night, we wandered in there right before 10 o’clock, and finished around 10:30. Although they can stay open until 11pm, they are open until they run out of their soup, which has happened many times in the last week alone. It happened when we got there, and we heard Shinya (the owner) tell someone that he made more that day in order to keep going later. Needless to say, they just opened, and I think they are trying to see what the demand is. This is to say that they are still experimenting with their quantities, so I would not go in at 10pm, expecting them to still have soup. Later on, I’m sure they will hit that magic number (as they can only seat so many people – roughly 25). I also wouldn’t be surprised if a line developed outside.
I’ve been pretty remiss on updating during the Summer. Let’s just say that I’ve been out and about… or something. Now, it’s fall… and I miss all the things Summer had to offer. One thing I miss is blueberries. In the months of June and July, Wholefoods had great blueberries on sale for $1.99, so I tried to get my fill. I’d pick up cartons of cartons and you can bet we were having blueberry pancakes! Other things that made the cut: fluffy muffins and frozen yogurt!

By far my favorite muffin recipe that I’ve tried is Smitten Kitchen‘s muffin recipe. The texture is just so lovely! I like the change this recipe for the fall and use fresh cranberries. (I wash and cut them into halves. I add TONS to the batter and some of them get soft, burst, and they get so delicious.)
 
Another favorite during the Summer was frozen yogurt. It’s SO MUCH easier to make than custard ice cream. I also feel like it’s a little healthier. You basically get some plain yogurt, add some honey/sugar/maple syrup as you want, and then any fruit (frozen is fine – I would add some more honey and let it defrost). I like to run some handfuls of berries through the food processor, so the yogurt gets colorful.
I like my gadgets. I have a food processor, electric juicer, a bread maker, soda machine (CO^2 dispenser)… I’ve been begging Ryan for an Ice Cream Maker. That and a Kitchenaid Mixer in a beautiful shade. Yeah. I am one of those women, you know… that covet the Kitchenaid Mixer. And for the most part our apartment is a gadget friendly home with 2 powerbook laptops, iphone, ipad, imac, keyboards, etc… Ryan is afraid of our apartment turning into the quintessential New York pack-rat apartment. I swear that half of all long time resident New Yorkers have apartments walled off with boxes. (My mother is evidence one, an ex-boyfriend evidence two, and my long time best friend’s grandparents as evidence 3. So there.) I think he’s also afraid of some sort of genetic hoarding gene of my mother’s to all of a sudden POP out… and devour him so that he ends up like one of those poor abused kitten remains that you find in the show Hoarders. Just saying…
If there is one thing I definitely need, it’s some help organizing my cupboards and closets.
 
So for my birthday, Sophear got me an Ice Cream Maker! Yay. I took it for a spin in May and made some yummy custard ice Cream with strawberries. It was really easy. I followed Simply Recipes‘s French Vanilla Ice Cream recipe. You want to use yolks, because they give the ice cream more depth, creaminess, and it helps keep the texture in the freezer. I mean, who doesn’t like custard? For the most part, I used the above as a guide, but since then, gotten away with using half the amount of yolks and it was delicious! It depends how decadent you want it. The worst part about a custard ice cream is that, I can’t stop eating the custard before it goes in the fridge. Oh yeah, and the prep time (ie. the time you need to both cool the mixture and freeze the icecream) is longer.
Strawberry Custard Ice Cream
Heat 2.5 cups of cream and 1 cup milk (I used the 2% I have lying around and used extra cream… just saying). Add half the sugar to the mixture. Stir. Heat the mixture up, but don’t have it steam and boil. Let cool for a few minutes.
Separate 4-6 egg yolks, depending on how melty/rich you want the ice cream.
Wisk the egg yolks with the remaining sugar. Using a table spoon, ladle the heated milk into the egg while quickly wisking. DON’T LET THE EGGS COOK. Keep stirring. I did this 3-4 times, ladling in the hot cream mixture. Once mixed, slowly add in the egg to the milk mixture, stirring quickly. Heat the mixture, stirring constantly, let the mixture simmer slightly, but don’t let it boil or the eggs will start the burn.
Turn off the heat, let the mixture cool a bit (transfer it to a rubber bowl or something that won’t keep hot like a steel bowl).
Trim your strawberries and cut into small chunks. I pureed the whole thing, but if you want to leave some chunks, you can smash them and leave them as so. (Or puree half the strawberry amount and mash the rest.) Pour strawberries into the custard, mix thoroughly.
Place mixture in fridge/freezer to cool for 1-2 hours. (If you used more than 4 yolks, you can safely put it in the freezer and it won’t freeze.)
Freeze the ice cream according to your ice cream maker’s instructions. Usually, you need to freeze the bowl over night, turn the machine on, and pour in the mixture. I let the machine freeze the cream for around 20 or so minutes. If you put a lot of yolks, like I did the first time, the ice cream won’t really freeze. It will have the consistency of runny melted soft serve. Pour out the mixture and put in the freezer for a couple of hours.
I was honestly a little discouraged after seeing the texture out of the ice cream maker. However, once frozen for at least 3-5 hours, it completely resembled ice cream and tasted amazing.
 
Here is some inspiration! In the near future, I need to make some Maple-Bacon icecream!
Next project: Frozen Yogurt (which was SUPER easy / doesn’t require any additional heating or freezing)
I don’t know whether Ryan is not getting enough iron or what, but he’s been craving red meat lately. And full disclosure, except for rare instances where we go to Shake Shack, we really rarely eat red meat. We mostly eat a lot of pork, chicken, or shellfish. However, these days, we’ve been eating steak at least once a week. (At most, we eat it twice a week in small amounts. We don’t regulate it, but it just sort of ends up that way.) Ryan loves to grill meats, but we’re mostly stuck indoors. (Last week, we went over to Amy’s over at Laundromat to use her building’s new grill. We just picked up some pre-marinated meats at Wholefoods, some asparagus, and spring corn.) Recently, Ryan’s picked up some grilling technique via the cast-iron skillet we have and marinated and cooked some pretty mean steaks.
I’ve cooked some steaks on the cast-iron, too, although mine are usually salted, instead of marinating. Salting? No, I’m not talking about “seasoning” it. In fact, afterwards, I wash it off and pat COMPLETELY DRY. I’m talking about this technique. It’s mighty good. Ryan, on the other hand, swears by miso-marinading the steak and broiling in the oven.
He’s perfected the method, starting out with a pretty tough flank steak to our last rib eye, both from Wholefoods. This time, he wanted something special and looked up specialty butcher shops. We found a great one near Bedford Ave in Brooklyn and took a trip there.
 
Marlow and Daughters 95 Broadway (between Bedford Ave & Berry St) Brooklyn, NY 11211
This place is a little bit of a walk from the Bedford Avenue L train station, but really worth a trek. This shop has tons of lovely things like organic vegetables (picked me up some rainbow chard!), cold cuts (picked some up), sausages (I’ve never had hand made hot dogs, so we bought a couple and plan to eat them tonight on a toasted potato bun), cheeses and yogurts (picked up a tub to make frozen yogurt). You definitely go there for one thing and come out with $50-$100 worth of stuff. Anyway. This is how we ended up with a little over a pound of dry-aged NY Strip Steak. We were looking at the dry-aged rib eye, but it was lofty 2lb monster with the bone… so yeah.
They butcher in house and a lot of steaks were left over from requests from restaurants from that day. The meats looked really great and fresh, if more expensive for the authentic butcher experience. The people that work there are super attentive and helpful, and of course, knowledgeable about their meats. Unfortunately this isn’t the type of place I would trek to once a week, but a splurge per month is definitely in the picture.
 
Red Miso Marinaded Steaks
This is Ryan’s recipe for steaks, which resembles the Japanese miso-zuke technique of marinading fishes. It makes the meat really flavorful and the mirin allows the outside to caramelize (the sugar content – so if you’re cooking a thinner steak and you suspect the cooking time to be less, then add more mirin for more of an instant char). Use around 3 table spoons per pound of meat with a splash of mirin or more if the steak is on the thinner side. Our steak last night was over an inch, so the mirin was minimal. Marinade at room temperature for an hour. If you want a stronger flavor, marinade in the fridge for some time and leave out for the last hour.
Twenty minutes before cooking, adjust the bottom rack of the oven to be around 6 inches from the flame. Set the oven to broil and leave in your cast-iron pan. Once the steak is good to cook, be careful and take out the cast iron and heat on the stove at the highest setting. (Please double up your oven mitts, as the one touching the cast iron was blackened.) The idea is to char the steak of a super hot surface. Place the steak on the skillet and brown each side for 30 seconds-1 minute. Depending on the thickness of the steak, once the meat is browned, throw into the oven (still on broil) for 2-4 minutes. I like mine medium rare, where the very center is still rare (less cooked than pink), so we left the steak for 2 and half minutes. Finally, take the steak out of the oven and rest on a cool surface for 10 minutes. There will be drippings from the meat that you can use later for sauce.
The meat was just SO tender and buttery. The dry aged meat gave the steak a real beefiness. And in fact, the miso didn’t detract from that, since it added a slight funkiness, tang, and saltiness and didn’t taste over powering-ly like miso. It was definitely one of our most memorable steak moments at home. The cut and quality of the meat is so important. Once we bought this flank steak that was just so chewy, even after marinading (and then it was full of artificial flavor, but not much meatiness, you know?) it was still one tough mo-fo. That moment made me really appreciate better cuts of meat. And personally, I’m not a big filet minion fan. It’s tender, but lacks a beefy/meatiness. Eh.

Roasted Kale
The kale, I kept simple. After washing the kale, I dried it thoroughly before tossing with some virgin olive oil. I added salt, pepper, garlic powder (see a pattern?), cayenne pepper (TONS), and Japanese shichimi chili flakes (7 variety). I cooked for a couple of minutes until the edges of the leaves are slightly crispy and everything else tender and dark green.
Sauteed Rainbow Chard
To accompany this dish, we roasted some kale (left overs) and sauteed some rainbow chard. We kept it easy and cooked it with 4-5 cloves of garlic and olive oil. I sprinkled some garlic powder, salt, and pepper for good measure.
I like the trim the chard from it’s stems and cook the stems extra long. I divided them up, and initially cooked the stems in oil and garlic for 5 or so minutes. I used around one clove of garlic and reserved the rest for when I sauteed the leaves. I put the stems aside and heat some additional oil and throw in the rest of the garlic into the pot. I used a pot to contain all the chard, but the leaves quickly wilted and shrunk to 1/4 it’s size. After 5 or so minutes, I threw the stems in, tossed around, and took the pot off the fire. Just sprinkle some lemon and grate some parmesan on top. Delicious.
 
Bon appetite!
We plated the steaks on top of brown and white rice respectively, each tossed with a small slab of butter, lime, salt, and parmesan (we know how to do it up!).
Feel free to adapt this for the grill. You just need to get the temperature really high. Let us know if there are any steak recipes that you recommend!!
Next post: We’ll report back on their hot dogs and yogurt (although I tasted that it was definitely yummy! I love that the 3 ingredients next to the yogurt are: organic whole milk, cultures, and vanilla) tomorrow!
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Umi 
"There is very little that I cannot / wouldn't eat. However, Ryan was able to get a good laugh out of a panicked look I had on my face while drowning back raw baby squid with beer."
Ryan 
Ryan needs to write a blurb here about himself. Like the time he almost lost his shit over the greatness that is Japanese Bento and set lunches. Needless to say, we both like to eat very much.
This is where Umi and Ryan discuss food There will be food reviews, recipes, links to resources, food news, and general food talk.
This website was coded in textwrangler on a mac by Umi H. She and her cat spent many hours one night not sleep or chasing shadows on a wall.
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